Clothing components and details for Gables

Components and details for three different eras, male and female, skewed towards upper class evening wear.

Period names are: Victorian, Edwardian, and Contemporary. "Contemporary" denotes post 1920 business or evening clothing (not as complicated as Edwardian items). A few Ageless items, mostly men's underwear, are also listed.

Small pockets (shirts, vest or watch pockets) have a volume of 25 cubic centimeters, can hold about 250 grams. Medium pockets (most coat or jacket pockets, regular trouser pockets) have a volume of 200 cubic centimeters, can hold about 1,000 grams. Large pockets (on trench coats, or trouser pockets big enough to put your hands in while walking) have a volume of 1000 cubic centimeters, can hold 2,000 grams.

Some traits I may suggest:

• cleanliness: greasy, muddy, soiled, smudged, stained, dirty, filthy, dusty, grimy, grubby, unpressed, unkempt, wrinkled, rumpled, clean, neatly-pressed, starched, pristine, lustrous
• condition: rough, bedgraggled, threadbare, worn, frayed, tattered, patched, moth-eaten, shabby, shoddy, torn, ripped, battered, ragged, mended, darned
• weight: flimsy, sheer, diaphanous, gauzy, delicate, thin, sleek, soft, thick, heavy
• fit: oversized/oversize, loose, comfortable, broad-shouldered, padded, form-fitting, well-tailored, snug, close-fitting, tight, tight-laced
• style: crude, dowdy, unstylish, old-fashioned, outdated, ostentatious, pretentious, plain, old, fashionable, rakish, stylish, beautiful, chic, dapper, classic, smart, rakish, elegant

Not all of the above terms can be applied to all types of clothing, of course.

Men's Suits

The trousers, vests and jackets of "ordinary" men's suits have some traits in common:

• fabric: broadcloth (wool), serge (a type of wool twill, often blue or gray/grey), chevoit (wool), tweed (wool), silk
• casual or summer fabrics: flannel, gabardine, corduroy (wool or cotton), duck (cotton), twill, whipcord (cotton), moleskin, worsted (another twill, of wool or cotton), linen. These are more likely to have pleats than the 'dress' trousers.
• color: black, gray/grey, plaid, tan, brown, blue, herringbone, checked, tattersall (usually cotton, often flannel, windowpane check, khaki, pinstriped/pinstripe, drab, olive

A jacket (sometimes called a coat) for a men's suit:

• components: cuff, sleeve, sleeve buttons, hem, lapel, buttons, buttonholes, boutonniere (a very small transparent container?), collar, welt or waist pockets, pocket flaps, handkerchief (or chest) pocket, inside pocket. A double-breasted jacket isn't usually worn with a vest.
• too fiddly: the parts that match human body names; and the vent, dart, gorge, outseam, ticket pocket.
• coding: can be buttoned or unbuttoned.
• related: formal or tuxedo jacket/coat (with lapel facings, etc.), lounge coat, frock coat, smoking jacket, tail coat/tailcoat … see separately.

A pair of trousers to go with a suit:

• components: two pockets (aka slash pockets on classier pants), maybe also a watch pocket, fly (either zipper or button), fly button(s) or zipper, crease, cuffs, waistband, inseam, belt loops (not all trousers have these).
• too fiddly: suspender buttons inside the waistband; side seam; parts that have the same names as human body parts: leg, knee, thigh, seat, calf …
• coding: besides "wear", pants can be pulled or yanked on or off. The fly can be open or closed, zipped/unzipped, buttoned/unbuttoned.
• related: jeans have western pockets, or even patch pockets, and are usually made from blue denim. Formal trousers have a side seam with a satin or grosgrain stripe running down the leg.

A vest (aka waistcoat) for a three-piece suit:

• components: buttonholes, buttons, watch pocket, vest pocket, backstrap. Vests in the 1933 Sears catalog don't have lapels, and are always single-breasted.
• too fiddly: attaching pocket watches, pince-nez, monocles or eyeglasses to a vest buttonhole; linings, and the material of the rear of the vest.
• coding: about like shirts, q.v.
• related:

• tuxedo (formal) vests can have lapels, or be double-breasted; they are usually black or midnight blue, and otherwise are like "regular" suit vests (i.e., same material and color as the jacket). A Victorian genteman, or a modern one, might wear a patterned vest with a dinner or tuxedo jacket, made of silk or some other ultra-fine fabric. You don't wear a vest with a cummerbund, by the way.
• More formal "white tie" vests usually have lapels, are made of white picquet cotton fabric, have studs instead of buttons, might have a breast pocket.
• A "fashion forward" person might wear a black formal vest (made of the same material as the coat) or a fancy embroidered or patterned vest (more common in the Victorian or Modern era, though). There are lots of other sorts of formal vests, to go with morning coats, levee dress, etc., and Victorian styles besides.

Haberdashery

For men's dress shirts:

• components: shirt-tail or tail, sleeves, cuffs (aka single cuff or barrel cuff), buttons, neckband (the upright part of the collar), collar (aka spread collar), yoke (the part of the back over the shoulders), breast (or chest) pocket
• too fiddly: the part on the front with the buttons and buttonholes is the placket. Avoid using human body part names, such as arm, body, shoulder, neck, front. Do we want to leave cuff links for only formal shirts?
• coding: shirts can be buttoned or unbuttoned; if unbuttoned, they can be opened. Sleeves can be rolled up. Collars can be undone.
• related: formal shirts (which are dress shirts, but not vice-versa) have no pocket, French cuffs (which are starched and fastened with cuff links), the buttons on the front are actually studs (but we should probably also allow the name 'button'), and a stiff wing collar – often detachable, but I doubt we want to go there. A formal collar can be celluloid, linene (a laminate of linen and cardstock), card/paper, or starched cotton or linen fabric; it has pointed wings; it's almost always white. Pleated shirt fronts are a thing, but apparently not through Sears in 1933.
• fabric: silk, cotton, linen, chambray (more of a work shirt material)
• color: gray, white, blue, polkadot, green, tan, patterned

For ties, they are either a necktie, a bow tie or a bolo tie (aka a string tie) :

• components: knot, neckband, tip or point (technically the apron); for a bow tie, the knot can also be called a crossknot, and the tips are usually called wings. Bolo and string ties have a slide instead of a knot, and the ends have aglets.
• too fiddly: ties have a lot of component names. Various other ties, such as stocks, legal or clerical ties, etc. can wait until they're needed.
• coding: ties can be loosened or tightened, or even worn while untied; there are various knots for a regular tie (four-in-hand, Windsor). Tie clasps and stick pins can wait for a person with more time on their hands!
• related: see scarfs/scarves and cravats
• fabrics: silk, rayon, knit wool (which would have a square end, and aren't formal)
• color: red, maroon, purple, gray, blue, black, white, checked, striped, patterned, polkadot

For belts, not including "belts sewed onto something"

• style: dress, plain, thick, thin, garrison, military, web, cartridge (which has pockets), money (which has a pocket)
• components: belt, buckle or knot; or belts can be 'wrap' (like on most bathrobes). Buckles can be round, frame, plate, simple, D, square, large, sliding, tongue, friction, roller, snap, ; buckle materials can be brass, steel, gold, silver, bronze, aluminum, gold-plated metal, silver-plated metal, leather, plastic …
• too fiddly: prong, tongue, tip, holes, keeper.
• coding: belts can be buckled/tied/tightened, or unbuckled/untied/untightened
• related: belts as components, for example on some dresses, or Norfolk jackets
• fabrics: leather, fabric (typ. canvas, web, elastic)
• color: black, brown, cordovan, white, tan, blue, striped, and pretty much any fabric color.

Cuffs:

• style: barrel cuffs (the usual dress shirt cuff), straight cuffs (where there's no seam above the buttons), French cuffs (the folds-back-and-needs-cufflinks thing), ruffled cuffs, lace cuffs, turnback cuffs (mostly on pre-Victorian coats – like pirate captains), detachable cuffs (which includes old-fashioned nurses' cuffs), contrasting cuffs (which brings the whole two-colors thing into play)…

Hosiery

Socks are "regular" (length not described, they cover the toes, foot and ankle) or long/knee/golf socks (which cover the calf).

• components: band or top
• too fiddly: other sock components tend to have names matching human body parts
• coding: socks can be pulled/yanked/tugged on or off. This is a "pair" item.
• related: hose, stockings
• fabric: cotton, wool (normally knit), silk
• color: black, white, brown, blue, tan, argyle, tartan, olive, green

Footwear

Men's sneakers that go with business or formal wear are very simple. Types are "shoes", dress shoes, derby, bluchers, balmorals, oxfords (technically a variety of balmoral shoes). Sport shoes are two-tone oxfords (black or brown, and white); spectator shoes are similar or the same.

• components tongue, shoelace or lace/laces, sole or outsole, shank, tip, knot, heel
• too fiddly: details that duplicate body parts, such as heel, toe
• coding: shoes can be tied/laced or untied/unlaced.
• related: Canvas shoes are for tennis, strolling, and other light uses. Boots … well, lots of those; they go over the ankle. "Button shoes" were common for men before the Great War, they are a form of boot. Loafers; moccasins (often suede) include deck and boat shoes.
• fabric: leather (maybe cordovan, kid or calfskin, if you want to get down into the details); patent leather for formal shoes.
• color: black, brown, or two-tone cover most of them for evening except in summer, when white shoes may appear.

Knitwear

Sweaters, sweater vests (very stylish for young men in the interwar period)

Accessories

bracelet, ring, necklace, earring, wrist watch, pocket watch, spectacles, pince-nez, monocle, lorgnette, belt, money belt, suspenders, cummerbund, waist sash, shoulder sash, boutonnierre, bib front or dickey (aka a dickie, dicky, tux front, tuxedo front, or detachable bosom – made of starched cloth, card or celluloid), handkerchief/kerchief/pocket square, spats …

Ladies' Wear

Text for the color plate below; "copen blue" is short for Copenhagen blue, a blue-gray shade.

• A. name: frock. Epaulets, full-puffed sleeves. Youthful collar of white pique cotton. Fabric is cotton broadcloth. Colors: brown and white, navy and white. Components: short puff sleeves, spread collar, buttons, placket, fabric belt (same as dress?) with round metal buckle.
• B. name: frock. Pique (most of it), sheer striped cotton blouse-like vestee, full plaid sleeves. Colors: white with red trim and details. Components: full sleeves, fall collar, buttons, placket, fabric belt (trim color), silver open buckle.
• C. name: trim tailored frock. Linen. Cape-like covered shoulders. Yoke-bodice, pocket-topped skirt panels. Colors: maize, peach, white. Components: no collar, but capelet over shoulders from neck; no sleeves; fabric belt (same as garment) with knot; two pockets.
• D. name: frock. Floral-print cotton with white organdy collar and trim. Colors: rose fancy, medium blue fancy. Components: wide lace collar with ruffles, short sleeves, fabric belt (same as dress) with knot.
• E. name: frock? Cotton collar, with white embroidery. Puffed sleeves. Collar and vestee of embroidered organdy. Colors: navy blue with white, maize with white. Components: spread collar, puff/puffed sleeves, lace, fabric belt (same as garment) with silver buckle.
• F. name: frock? Paradise check print (cotton?), with white organdy ruffles on collar and sleeves. Colors: red and white check, copen blue and white check. Components: ruffled collar and sleeves; black leather belt with metal buckle.
• G. name: frock? Cotton percale, with stitched down collar. Colors: yellow print, medium blue print. Components: Round collar, puff sleeves, fabric belt (same as dress) with frame buckle.
• H. name: dress. Cotton percale. Colors: black and white print, navy and white print. Components: shawl (?) collar, short sleeves, fabric belt with silver buckle.
• J. name: two-piece suit. Cotton knit for skirt and trim, with suede-like cotton jacket. Colors: green cotton suede, blue-and-white strped cotton knit. Components; cotton knit skirt, cotton suede jacket, cotton knit long sleeves with barrel cuffs, round (?) collar of cotton knit.
• K. name: sleeveless dress with removable cape, spread collar (collar and shoulders are hidden by cape). Cotton ratine. Colors: white with orange, white with copen blue. Components: cape, buttons, placket, fabric belt with frame buckle; no sleeves.

The next image is "suits", described as:

• A: leg o'mutton sleeve, basque jacket with buttons, belted skirt with kick pleats. Wool. Colors: Orleans blue, Baden green, medium gray.
• B: three-quarter length coat with pockets, raglan sleeves, and turnback cuffs, and skirt (blouse not included). Tweed and silk. Colors: navy with blue check, or light brown check.
• C: jacket with lapels, pockets, button cuffs; leather belt worn over the jacket; matching skirt with box pleats and slot seams. Blouse and scarf not included. Tweed. Colors: medium light tan, or gray.
• Fox scarfs. Colors: natural red, brown, black, silver-pointed, black.
  
  
  
  
  

"Take-off" capelet style with Matelasse-shirred cape collar, the new "Day Light to Star Light" fashion! Made of an excellent quality silk Rough Crepe, Weighted. The dress with puffed sleeves of embroidered silk chiffon (your most observing friend won't recognise it with the cape removed) is one gorgeous sweep, giving you grace and reed-like slenderness in two of the most favored spring shades – Hyacinth Blue and Antique (mustard) gold. Ankle length dress with capelet.