# Three Ways to Love Cauliflower **by Ruth Weinstein** **Prologue** I have loved you from the start when I poked your tiny seeds into the special soil mix and lavished care upon their sprouting and when I transplanted you into rich beds with the pride of an unschooled mother attending her first child’s graduation from college. But, beloved brassica, I love you most once you are harvested, prepared and plated in the consummation of a hungry gardener and her favorite vegetable. **Traditional Love** Once you were boiled to death, your delicate scent overcome by indoles and isothiocynates. Only the French knew to puree or gratin your bridal purity. Then you were cut up with carrots and broccoli into crudités, plunged into gelatinous dips, in the name of good health. Always, though, there was someone who loved your sweet nutty flavor and could make you into a warming soup kissed with nutmeg, slip you into curries with black mustard seeds and fragrant spices. **Hot Love** ‘Call me your petit chou fleur and I am likely to leap national borders and melt into a welcoming bagna cauda.’ ‘Come, and dip your perfect snowy florets into the oily ocean of my love. Your soldierly carrot sticks will forsake their posts when they taste my salty tang. Endives will eschew couture and wear only my buttery sheen. Humble boiled potatoes will sing out for champagne to wash down the anchovies and garlic, but it is the cauliflower that most beautifully lowers itself into my warm bath, adorned only with a sprig of parsley tucked in its crown.’ **New Love** Now with the earthy beet you have become a rock star and every review-seeking chef courts you with glamour and fame. They fry you and melt you with goat cheese and caraway mustard on artisanal rye. They dress you with baubles of fried Thai basil leaves in east meets west or roast you till you gleam with alchemical gold. They braise you in exotic alcoholic hazes till you swoon with surrender. They have blown up the world, and all the jewels of your royal crown settle to plate in new and wondrous settings.